Dropping in on bigger steeper waves can be really challenging especially for less experienced sufers. One of the keys are commitment,and that,s commiting to the wave you paddle for and not hesitating to go. Keep your head low close to the deck of the board just long enough to get down the face of the wave, and paddle short, fast intense strokes, taking off early underneith the lip. If you hesitate and try and take off at the top of the lip more than likely you will get laucnched with the lip and that makes the wipeout a lot worse! Also important to remember to keep your knees bent as your dropping down the face. The next time your out there and you want to try a slightly steeper hollower wave than what your used to my advice is know your limits, confidence level and yes go for it! Sart off with smaller steeper waves and slowly work your way up to the bigger more powerful days. Don,t be afraid of wiping out the first few times. The saying is “”You,ll never know until you go””.
